ok you asked for it:
Fly to Hokkaido from Tokyo – you can take the train, try to drive from Tokyo or take a ferry. The latter choices are all very expensive and time consuming. Return flights form Calgary to Sapporo are around $1300.
February is primo time, the base is well settled and there are typically lots of storms still rolling through. I've been December and January and had great times then too. March gets a little warmer but if you're willing to hunt around you're more likely to get good weather and there is still lots of chance for fresh powder especially in the North.
Go with someone who knows the area, hire a guide, or become fluent in Japanese (however not many of the Japanese are intereseted in schralping Pow). To me a trip to Japan is about outrageous lift access powder. Unless you've got a long time to discover each resort you're better off getting directions on which resort to hit what day, and where to ski the runs that are deep. This invovles some rope ducking, which at some run/resorts is tolerated and others not so much. The week we were there we had 2, 70+ cm days, 1 40 cm day, 1 25 cm day, 1 day when the top of the mountain opened and it was ridiculous, bottomless, chokingly goodness. We skied a different resort nearly every day all within a 2 hour drive of Niseko. Niseko is a great home base but be prepared to go other places North and South. Storms tend to be intense and localized, with one resort getting a metre in a day and one 20 km away getting only 10 cm. Weather can close the lifts and highways so you need to be flexible, plan to change your plans.
Rent a car – see above. Niseko Auto rents cars at Chitose airport. If they're all out Toyota rents from the airport too.
Bring touring gear. If it's dumping hit the resort, but if it's been a couple of days there is so much beautiful touring that it's a shame not to partake. That being said the alpine in Japan can be crazy windy. Staying off ridgetops and peaks is often the only sensible option. Luckily the tree skiing is like nowhere else.
Its cold, well sort-of. I ditch my touring attire a bring a warm insulated jacket and goretex pants. I even sport a thin windproof softshell under my insulated jacket. It might only be -6 C on the thermometer, but the wind and humidity combine to make one bonechilling activity. Sitting on lifts doesn't help either.
Contacts and Resources – Black Diamond Lodge, Black Diamond Tours, – Owner/Operator by Clayton Kernaghan has more knowledge about Hokkaido riding than just about anybody. An amazing resource for where to go and what to do. Andrew Spragg has been around Niseko nearly as long and provides resort and backcountry guiding. Unfortunately they're both snowboarders!
Hokkaido Backcountry Club – Clay's latest experiment brings many local businesses together to specializes in backcountry access by Heli, sled and foot. It's good to keep your options open.
Take time for Onsen – One of the best parts about visiting Japan in the winter is to partake in the daily ritual of Onsen or hot springs. They are everywhere, some rustic, some ritzy, but always with hot water and a place to wash. You can buy a can of beer and sit outside with the snow falling on your head in 40C water. Brush up on the local rules of etiquette before treating it like a hottub party! Usually costs between $5 to $10 per visit. Great way to keep the body working for a couple weeks of solid skiing.
Bring Fat skis – No your 90 mm waisted skis are not fat enough. You're 110 mm? maybe but you'll have more fun on a serious set of big skis. Seriously, if you can, it's worth getting a new pair for the trip.
Booze – Beer available in every convience store, and nearly every store, hotel and lobby has a vending machine. Several brands, all taste the same. Japan is in need of a microbrewing revolution! European wine is dirt cheap, Italian chianti $5 a bottle, Bordeaux $6.
Food – is generally excellent at the resorts, but it can be worthwhile to venture a little further afield to find the best ramen, curry, fusion and sushi restaurants. Most skiers eat 2 meals a day at 7-11, Seicomart or Lawsons. Rice balls and steamed buns are great fuel for the day.
Take some time to get away from the resorts, visit the national parks, stay in a Japanese Hostel. They won't speak much english but you might escape the Australian throngs. If you want to see lots of loud, sometimes drunk and rowdy Australians, stay in Hirafu… or don't.
Night Skiing – You've seen it in all the movies. If it's dumping at your apres ski, go night skiing in Hirafu, skiers right into the trees. Madness!
I didn't take many many pics 'cause it was pretty stormy for most of this years trip and it's the last thing on my mind when I'm having a great time. On our last day we were blessed to have a bluebird day and were lucky enough to get on a heli trip to Shirabetsu.
Heli access of Shirabetsu
Glide cracks and summit
Shirabetsu trees
F-man, Clayton and yours truly. Yotei inviting to be toured in the distance.
Tiene Highland with Sapporo in the distance
Too much Ramen!